Men’s shirt. Theoretical part.

Classical

A shirt of the classic type belongs to the office style of clothing, since it not only looks elegant and official, but also emphasizes the status of its owner. It is important to note that such shirts are worn with a business suit or tie . Although many men wear them under a sweater, this option will be appropriate in an informal setting.

As for the color of the classic shirt, it is most often white. Of course, you can afford to experiment with shades, but keep in mind that in many countries, business etiquette does not accept the use of dark-colored shirts in a business environment.

Classic shirts are chosen most often, since they suit almost all men, regardless of figure and complexion.

Fit

Such a shirt is characterized by a semi-fitting cut, and therefore it is suitable for men with a sporty and slim physique. You can go on a date, a party, or a festive family event in a fitted shirt. It looks good with a narrow tie. But keep in mind that it is difficult to choose a fitted shirt, because it is necessary that it is not too narrow and not too loose. That is why such products are best sewn to order.

Free

Loose shirts are quite suitable for everyday work in the office, as well as for business meetings. Combining comfort and rigor, such a thing is one of the most practical items of a business wardrobe.

But do not confuse loose shirts with baggy clothes, since the former emphasize the figure, and the latter hide it, as a result of which the silhouette visually becomes heavier. With a free cut, it is allowed for the shirt to be 1-2 sizes larger than the parameters of the figure of its owner. As for color solutions, it is worth giving preference to blue or blue shirts. Checkered models are also popular.

 In order to understand what will be discussed next, it is necessary to understand the structure of the collar of a man’s shirt. The main parts of a men’s shirt collar are :

1. Ends (“wings” of collar lapels)

2. The length of the collars (the distance between the ends of the collar and the stand)

3. Collar height (transverse width). This parameter determines how the open collar will look

4. Stand (the part of the collar adjacent to the neck)

5. Tie cut (the distance between the upper parts of the lapels when the collar is buttoned).

6. The width of the neckline (the distance between the ends of the collar).

Types of collar cut

Thanks to the collar, the shirt can look elegant, official, representative. Having chosen the ego type correctly, you can even correct the shortcomings of your own appearance.

There are the following types of collar cut:

1.Shark (Aka “French”. Aka “Oblique” and “Cutaway” – Cutaway) – A turn-down collar with sharp, cut or rounded ends (in principle, any shape). The ends of the collar are widely separated in different directions. A buttoned collar is an obtuse angle, which in some cases forms an almost straight line. 

 What is he like: serious, official, pompous.

Looks good with : a classic business suit. Not an option for a jacket and a tuxedo.

When appropriate : at official celebratory receptions.

Suitable for : men with a long neck. The turn of the corners of this collar represents a horizontal line, so it shortens a short or voluminous neck even more.

Types of tie knots that will perfectly complement the “French” image : this collar requires a large knot, so a tie made of thick fabric is selected. If the tie is made of light fabric, it should be tied with a wide knot like “New Classic”, “Windsor”, “Baltus” or “Granchester”. Heavy ties with a filler are best tied with a “Double” knot, “Freestyle” or “Half-Windsor”. This collar goes well with a bow tie.

2. Kent (“Classical”. Also “Wide collar”. Traditional & Oxford Point Collar.) is a turn-down collar with long sharp corners, the ends of which look down, forming a triangle. Most of the shirts are produced with such a collar. Shirts of this type are considered universal, as they do not go out of fashion and can be combined with a suit of any cut. 

What is he like : conservative and strict. Magnificent in a business environment, at receptions.

It looks good with : a double-breasted jacket (if you are not too tall), a classic suit of absolutely any cut, and also goes very well with a suit with a small longitudinal stripe. A tie and a bow tie are also perfect for this type of collar.

Kogda umesten : an official event of any level. 

Who it will suit : a “classic” collar is suitable for almost any type of face. “Kent” “frames” the tie and creates the so-called “arrow effect”, as if pointing upwards, on the face. Visually lengthens a rounded face, while creating a more harmonious image. This type of collar is contraindicated for thin men with a narrow face, because it visually stretches and lengthens the face, and also narrows the chest.

Types of tie knots that will perfectly complement the “classic” image : the knot should be chosen in accordance with the type of tie fabric, the knot should not be too massive. For a tie made of heavy fabric, knots are suitable: “Freestyle”, “New”, “New Classic”, “Eastern”, “Pratt”. If the fabric is of medium weight: “Half Windsor” and “Double”. For ties made of light fabric: “Windsor” and “Diagonal”.

3.Button-down (Button-down) – a turn-down collar with long edges, which fastens to the shirt with the help of special buttons. Such a shirt is not necessarily worn with a tie. Products with a collar of this type are suitable for an informal setting, but not for solemn events. 

What is he like: informal, stylish, sporty.

It looks good with : something informal – it’s quite possible with jeans.

When appropriate : for conducting business negotiations in an informal setting or simply during free time. If there is an official event ahead, it is best to leave the button-down collared shirt at home.

Who it is suitable for: suitable for those who do not have a double chin, as the buttons draw attention to the collar and neck.

Types of tie knots that will perfectly complement such an informal look : it can be worn without a tie, unbuttoned – or with a medium-sized tie knot. A tie with a light filler is suitable, or without it at all. With filler – “Simple knot”, “New classic”, “Kelvin”, “Victoria”, “Free style”, “Eastern”. Without filler – “Poluwindsor”.

4.Varno – a collar with wide folded edges, which due to their dense texture do not touch the edge of the shirt. Men’s shirts with a “varno” collar go well with a sweater and a suit, and will be appropriate in an informal setting. 

5.Butterfly (Wing Collar) is a stand-up collar with pointed and elongated edges that are slightly bent to the sides at an angle of 45 degrees. In English, this type of collar is known as “wine” (“wing”). In Ukraine and other European cities, this collar is called a “bow tie” because such shirts are combined only with a bow tie. 

What is he like : the most solemn, the most official and chic. A lot of pathos.

Looks good with : tailcoat or tuxedo.

When appropriate : at lavish receptions.

Who it will suit : it will suit everyone, especially if the cheekbones and chin stand out, but the head is not too big.

Types of tie knots that will ideally complement such an image : Initially, this collar is intended for bow ties or plastron ties. A plastron is a scarf tied with a knot on the chest, which is pierced with a special decorative pin. In Great Britain, this type of tie is called an “ascott” (in the Russian version of the pronunciation “escott” or “ascot”). You can also use a “lavalier” – a white neckerchief. Today, it is most often sold already tied in a small knot, and its freely falling ends are beautifully draped.

6.Tangerine (aka “Chinese collar”. No Collar) is a classic stand-up collar, low and not wide, without fold-over edges. Just a strip of fabric without otlognyh edges, fitting the neck. A small distance between the edges is located under the chin line. The ends of the collar are sharp or slightly rounded right angles. The collar of this style allows you to hide the shirt buttons under the bar. To give the shirt solemnity and magnificence, manufacturers usually make cuffs, a bar and a collar from fabric of the same color, but of a different texture. The international designation “No Collar” (without a collar). 

What is it like : simple, unusual, universal.

Looks good with : a jacket. Only with French. If the option is in the Casual style, it looks a little different. This option is clearly not for a suit.

When appropriate : depends on the style and quality of the shirt. An official, festive, and everyday version is possible.

Who is suitable for: men of medium height, with a small head, without a second chin, with an average neck length and not too massive facial features.

Types of tie knots that will ideally complement the “Chinese” image : the eternal companion is a “bow” or “butterfly”, in extreme cases. No ties.

And also, if there is an opportunity not to fasten the collar with all the buttons, do not fasten it. Beautiful carelessness is an indicator of freedom and self-confidence. In general, if everything is buttoned up, you will seem stuck. Yes, and most likely, if in addition to buttons around the neck there is also a tie – forget about comfort, it can really look like a “bog”. The same principle applies to narrow collars.

7.Vario (“Italian”. Aka “Vario”. Wide Collar & Curve Collar.) – Wide set-back edges of the collar with sharp corners sharply diverging in different directions, since this style of shirt does not have a top button. A rigid spacer is sewn into the collar, so the ends of the shirt fabric practically do not touch each other. These democratic shirts are usually worn without a tie at all, you can wear them under a not very thick cardigan or sweater, and the pants should be wide and loose. 

 What is he like: informal, free, elegant.

It looks good with : a pullover is an especially good combination, although it is now fashionable to wear them with suits.

When Appropriate : This collar is appropriate for any informal event, as the Vario collar does not have a top button. Shirts of this cut are perfect for leisure time.

Who is it suitable for: such a collar visually widens the cheekbones and shoulders, so it is especially suitable for thin and fragile men of short stature.

Types of tie knots that will ideally complement the “Italian” image : “Italian” requires tying a strong knot, small in size. Ties made of cashmere and wool (perhaps a small addition of silk) meet these requirements if they tie a “Granchester”, “Pratt”, “New Classic”, “New Knot”, “Hanover” knot. If you take a medium-weight tie, then tie it with a “Half-Windsor” knot, light ties should be tied with a “Cross” knot.

8. Tab (Tab Collar) – The protruding edges of this collar are tightly attached to the stand and of the same length as it. The ends of the collar are quite narrow, but not long, which allows you to pull them together with the help of a buttonhole, a special fastener or a pin that is hidden under the knot of the tie. This type of collar is most often found in the United States of America – in Europe it is quite rare. 

What is he like: interesting, unusual, different, drawing attention to himself.

Looks good with: a business suit and only paired with a tie.

When appropriate : it can be suitable for celebrations, or for everyday wear in the office (depending on the cost of accessories). It looks bad with the top buttons undone or without a tie.

Who it will suit : those who have a narrow face, a long neck, no second chin and a wide jaw. Very emphasizes the neck and chin. Yes, the cut itself draws attention to itself.

Types of tie knots that will perfectly complement the “tab” image : with such a collar – without a tie anywhere. The knot should be narrow and neat. It is best to use a tie made of light fabric, it is also suitable with a light filler (or without it at all).

The most suitable nodes : “Eastern”, “Simple”, “Victoria”, “New”, “Diagonal”, “Kelvin”. Windsor knots with this type of collar are not recommended.

9.Cromby – a wide collar of rectangular shape, the edges of which look down. In the business wardrobe, ego began to be used quite recently. A shirt with such a collar is suitable for everyday wear in the office.